MODULE 1. “TECHNOLOGY OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS“
Content modules: 1. Technology of toiletries and hare care cosmetic products.
TOILETRIES. SOAP.
Soaps & Detergent: Prehistoric to Middle Ages
The origins of personal cleanliness date back to prehistoric times. Since water is essential for life, the earliest people lived near water and knew something about its cleansing properties – at least that it rinsed mud off their hands.
A soap-like material found in clay cylinders during the excavation of ancient Babylon is evidence that soapmaking was known as early as 2800 B.C. Inscriptions on the cylinders say that fats were boiled with ashes, which is a method of making soap, but do not refer to the purpose of the “soap.” Such materials were later used as hair styling aids.
Records show that ancient Egyptians bathed regularly. The Ebers Papyrus, a medical document from about 1500 B.C., describes combining animal and vegetable oils with alkaline salts to form a soap-like material used for treating skin diseases, as well as for washing.
At about the same time, Moses gave the Israelites detailed laws governing personal cleanliness. He also related cleanliness to health and religious purification. Biblical accounts suggest that the Israelites knew that mixing ashes and oil produced a kind of hair gel.
The early Greeks bathed for aesthetic reasons and apparently did not use soap. Instead, they cleaned their bodies with blocks of clay, sand, pumice and ashes, then anointed themselves with oil, and scraped off the oil and dirt with a metal instrument known as a strigil. They also used oil with ashes. Clothes were washed without soap in streams.
Soap got its name, according to an ancient Roman legend, from Mount Sapo, where animals were sacrificed. Rain washed a mixture of melted animal fat, or tallow, and wood ashes down into the clay soil along the Tiber River. Women found that this clay mixture made their wash cleaner with much less effort.
The ancient Germans and Gauls are also credited with discovering a substance called soap, made of tallow and ashes, that they used to tint their hair red.
As Roman civilization advanced, so did bathing. The first of the famous Roman baths, supplied with water from their aqueducts, was built about 312 B.C. The baths were luxurious, and bathing became very popular. By the second century A.D., the Greek physician, Galen, recommended soap for both medicinal and cleansing purposes.
After the fall of Rome in 467 A.D. and the resulting decline in bathing habits, much of Europe felt the impact of filth upon public health. This lack of personal cleanliness and related unsanitary living conditions contributed heavily to the great plagues of the Middle Ages, and especially to the Black Death of the 14th century. It wasn’t until the 17th century that cleanliness and bathing started to come back into fashion in much of Europe. Still there were areas of the medieval world where personal cleanliness remained important. Daily bathing was a common custom in Japan during the Middle Ages. And in Iceland, pools warmed with water from hot springs were popular gathering places on Saturday evenings.
Soaps & Detergent: History (1200s-1850)
Soapmaking was an established craft in Europe by the seventh century. Soapmaker guilds guarded their trade secrets closely. Vegetable and animal oils were used with ashes of plants, along with fragrance. Gradually more varieties of soap became available for shaving and shampooing, as well as bathing and laundering.
Italy, Spain and France were early centers of soap manufacturing, due to their ready supply of raw materials such as oil from olive trees. The English began making soap during the 12th century. The soap business was so good that in 1622, King James I granted a monopoly to a soapmaker for $100,000 a year. Well into the 19th century, soap was heavily taxed as a luxury item in several countries. When the high tax was removed, soap became available to ordinary people, and cleanliness standards improved.
Commercial soapmaking in the American colonies began in 1608 with the arrival of several soapmakers on the second ship from England to reach Jamestown, VA. However, for many years, soapmaking stayed essentially a household chore. Eventually, professional soapmakers began regularly collecting waste fats from households, in exchange for some soap.
A major step toward large-scale commercial soapmaking occurred in 1791 when a French chemist, Nicholas Leblanc, patented a process for making soda ash, or sodium carbonate, from common salt. Soda ash is the alkali obtained from ashes that combines with fat to form soap. The Leblanc process yielded quantities of good quality, inexpensive soda ash.
The science of modern soapmaking was bom some 20 years later with the discovery by Michel Eugene Chevreul, another French chemist, of the chemical nature and relationship of fats, glycerine and fatty acids. His studies established the basis for both fat and soap chemistry.
Also important to the advancement of soap technology was the mid-1800s invention by the Belgian chemist, Ernest Solvay, of the ammonia process, which also used common table salt, or sodium chloride, to make soda ash. Solvay’s process further reduced the cost of obtaining this alkali, and increased both the quality and quantity of the soda ash available for manufacturing soap.
These scientific discoveries, together with the development of power to operate factories, made soapmaking one of America’s fastest-growing industries by 1850. At the same time, its broad availability changed soap from a luxury item to an everyday necessity. With this widespread use came the development of milder soaps for bathing and soaps for use in the washing machines that were available to consumers by the turn of the century.
Soaps & Detergent: History (1900s to Now)
The chemistry of soap manufacturing stayed essentially the same until 1916, when the first synthetic detergent was developed in Germany in response to a World War I-related shortage of fats for making soap. Known today simply as detergents, synthetic detergents are non-soap washing and cleaning products that are “synthesized” or put together chemically from a variety of raw materials. The discovery of detergents was also driven by the need for a cleaning agent that, unlike soap, would not combine with the mineral salts in water to form an insoluble substance known as soap curd.
Household detergent production in the United States began in the early 1930s, but did not really take off until after World War II. The war-time interruption of fat and oil supplies as well as the military’s need for a cleaning agent that would work in mineral-rich sea water and in cold water had further stimulated research on detergents.
The first detergents were used chiefly for hand dishwashing and fine fabric laundering. The breakthrough in the development of detergents for all-purpose laundry uses came in 1946, when the first “built” detergent (containing a surfactant/builder combination) was introduced in the U.S. The surfactant is a detergent product’s basic cleaning ingredient, while the builder helps the surfactant to work more efficiently. Phosphate compounds used as builders in these detergents vastly improved performance, making them suitable for cleaning heavily soiled laundry.
By 1953, sales of detergents in this country had surpassed those of soap. Now detergents have all but replaced soap-based products for laundering, dishwashing and household cleaning. Detergents (alone or in combination with soap) are also found in many of the bars and liquids used for personal cleansing.
Since those early achievements in detergent and builder chemistry, new product activity has continued to focus on developing cleaning products that are efficient and easy to use, as well as safe for consumers and for the environment. Here’s a summary of some of those innovations:
1950s
Automatic dishwasher powders
Liquid laundry, hand dishwashing and all-purpose cleaning products
Fabric softeners (rinse-cycle added)
Detergent with oxygen bleach
1960s
Prewash soil and stain removers
Laundry powders with enzymes
Enzyme presoaks
1970s
Liquid hand soaps
Fabric softeners (sheets and wash-cycle added)
Multifunctional products (e.g., detergent with fabric softener)
1980s
Detergents for cooler water washing
Automatic dishwasher liquids
Concentrated laundry powders
1990s
Ultra (superconcentrated) powder and liquid detergents
Ultra fabric softeners
Automatic dishwasher gels
Laundry and cleaning product refills
2000s
Disposable cleaning wipes
Pre-measured dissolvable packets
Spa sents and natural options
Soaps
Soaps are water-soluble sodium or potassium salts of fatty acids. Soaps are made from fats and oils, or their fatty acids, by treating them chemically with a strong alkali.
First let’s examine the composition of fats, oils and alkalis; then we’ll review the soapmaking process.
Fats and Oils
The fats and oils used in soapmaking come from animal or plant sources. Each fat or oil is made up of a distinctive mixture of several different triglycerides.
In a triglyceride molecule, three fatty acid molecules are attached to one molecule of glycerine. There are many types of triglycerides; each type consists of its own particular combination of fatty acids.
Fatty acids are the components of fats and oils that are used in making soap. They are weak acids composed of two parts:
A carboxylic acid group consisting of one hydrogen (H) atom, two oxygen (O) atoms, and one carbon (C) atom, plus a hydrocarbon chain attached to the carboxylic acid group. Generally, it is made up of a long straight chain of carbon (C) atoms each carrying two hydrogen (H) atoms.
Animal Fat:
Most inexpensive soaps are by-products of the meat packing industry. There are, however, a large number of reasons for preferring vegetable-based soaps over animal ones, not the least of which is that toxins, including synthetic hormones used to bulk up animals, tend to accumulate in fat tissue. If this were not a cogent enough argument, it is fairly easy to demonstrate that animal fats tend to clog pores more than vegetable oils. Even going back many centuries, soaps made from vegetable oils, like Castile soap, were regarded as superior to those made from lard. Animal fat has to be “rendered” or purified. This involves cooking and odor. Meat has to be separated from the fat. This is usually done by heating the fat so that the cracklings separate. The meat looks like it has been cooked, which, of course, it has. The meat must be removed. Sometimes, water has to be added so that it absorbs the impurities. Then, the “soup” has to cooled, usually slowly, so that the fat separates and rises to the top while the heavier parts sink. The fat is then skimmed off. If the fat still has odor and impurities, the process has to be repeated.
Vegetable Oils:
In Spain, there was a tradition of fine soap making, called Castile because of the place name. These soaps used mainly olive oil. Today, coconut oil, sometimes called coconut butter, is used in many soaps because it lathers nicely and is almost odorless.
However, almost any vegetable oil can be used. The more common ones are almond, avocado, jojoba, palm, and shea butter.
Alkali
An alkali is a soluble salt of an alkali metal like sodium or potassium. Originally, the alkalis used in soapmaking were obtained from the ashes of plants, but they are now made commercially. Today, the term alkali describes a substance that chemically is a base (the opposite of an acid) and that reacts with and neutralizes an acid.
The common alkalis used in soapmaking are sodium hydroxide (NaOH), also called caustic soda; and potassium hydroxide (KOH), also called caustic potash.
Lye Water:
If it is too corrosive, more water needs to be added. This is a time consuming process that requires burning one’s own organic materials over an open fire or in a cast iron pot. If a feather dissolves in the lye, the pH is probably about right. Some try floating eggs or potatoes in the brew. These objects should float so that half their mass is below the water line.
This kind of base will make a soft soap, not a hard soap.
Caustic Soda:
Sodium hydroxide is a nasty chemical that requires special handling, like safety goggles and gloves. It was introduced in the 19th century by a French chemist named Nicolas Leblanc (1742-1806) and improved by a Belgian chemist, Ernest Solvay (1836-1922), who changed the nature of the soap and impacted the industry radically. Basically, the newer methods substituted sodium hydroxide for the lye water made from potash. The result was a hard soap that was easy to store and ship. Soap making moved from the farm to industrial manufacturers who realized huge profits from the recycling of animal fats into commercially viable cakes that were easy to sell.
Other Ingredients:
As everyone knows, there can be a lot of ingredients in soap: chemical stabilizers, preservatives, fragrances, vitamins, seaweed, corn, oatmeal, pumice, aloe, dyes, milk, fruit or berries, cucumbers or carrots or other vegetables, exotic oils, beeswax, herbs and flowers . . . Each ingredient changes the chemistry of the bar of soap. Let’s see how clear I can be. Milk, from goats or other animals, counts towards the acid (and water) component of the soap. Aloe gel counts towards the base component and enhances the disinfecting properties of the soap.
Intuitive people as well as those who are cutting edge iew ecological developments must realize that each constituent not only has to go through some process to prepare it for use in the soap but each one changes the pH of the soap—and our environment—because even if run-off today does not start in a temple where animal sacrifices are performed, it starts with animal sacrifice and ends up laced with antibiotics and derivatives of the petrochemical industry that eventually end up in sewage and septic systems.
How Soaps are Made
Saponification of fats and oils is the most widely used soapmaking process. This method involves heating fats and oils and reacting them with a liquid alkali to produce soap and water (neat soap) plus glycerine.
The other major soapmaking process is the neutralization of fatty acids with an alkali. Fats and oils are hydrolyzed (split) with a high-pressure steam to yield crude fatty acids and glycerine. The fatty acids are then purified by distillation and neutralized with an alkali to produce soap and water (neat soap).
When the alkali is sodium hydroxide, a sodium soap is formed. Sodium soaps are “hard” soaps. When the alkali is potassium hydroxide, a potassium soap is formed. Potassium soaps are softer and are found in some liquid hand soaps and shaving creams.
The carboxylate end of the soap molecule is attracted to water. It is called the hydrophilic (water-loving) end. The hydrocarbon chain is attracted to oil and grease and repelled by water. It is known as the hydrophobic (water-hating) end.
How Water Hardness Affects Cleaning Action
Although soap is a good cleaning agent, its effectiveness is reduced when used in hard water. Hardness in water is caused by the presence of mineral salts – mostly those of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg), but sometimes also iron (Fe) and manganese (Mn). The mineral salts react with soap to form an insoluble precipitate known as soap film or scum.
Soap film does not rinse away easily. It tends to remain behind and produces visible deposits on clothing and makes fabrics feel stiff. It also attaches to the insides of bathtubs, sinks and washing machines.
Some soap is used up by reacting with hard water minerals to form the film. This reduces the amount of soap available for cleaning. Even when clothes are washed in soft water, some hardness minerals are introduced by the soil on clothes. Soap molecules are not very versatile and cannot be adapted to today’s variety of fibers, washing temperatures and water conditions.
Raw Materials
Soap requires two major raw materials: fat and alkali. The alkali most commonly used today is sodium hydroxide. Potassium hydroxide can also be used. Potassium-based soap creates a more water-soluble product than sodium-based soap, and so it is called “soft soap.” Soft soap, alone or in combination with sodium-based soap, is commonly used in shaving products.
The traditional fats and oils used to make soap are tallow and coconut oil. With the expansion of the oleochemical industry, raw materials for soap making—fatty acids with C12–C18 hydrocarbon chains—are now easily available. Besides tallow, other sources of C16–C18 fatty acids are palm oil and palm stearin, a fractionated product of palm oil, while sources for C12–C14 fatty acids are palm kernel oil and coconut oil. The two main types of soap noodles are based on tallow and palm. Other types of vegetable oil soap bases are also available. Tallow-based soap is usually a blend of tallow, animal fats, and coconut or palm kernel oil. Palm-based soap is a blend of palm oil or palm stearin with palm kernel oil or a combination of all three. The uniqueness of palm-based soap is that all of the fatty acids necessary for the base are derived from one source (palm fruits) and thus it is totally vegetable based
Additives are used to enhance the color, texture, and scent of soap. Fragrances and perfumes are added to the soap mixture to cover the odor of dirt and to leave behind a fresh-smelling scent. Abrasives to enhance the texture of soap include talc, silica, and marble pumice (volcanic ash). Soap made without dye is a dull grey or brown color, but modern manufacturers color soap to make it more enticing to the consumer.
The above illustrations show the kettle process of making soap.
The Manufacturing Process
The kettle method of making soap is still used today by small soap manufacturing companies. This process takes from four to eleven days to complete, and the quality of each batch is inconsistent due to the variety of oils used. Around 1940, engineers and scientists developed a more efficient manufacturing process, called the continuous process. This procedure is employed by large soap manufacturing companies all around the world today. Exactly as the name states, in the continuous process soap is produced continuously, rather than one batch at a time. Technicians have more control of the production in the continuous process, and the steps are much quicker than in the kettle method—it takes only about six hours to complete a batch of soap.
The Kettle Process
Boiling
1 Fats and alkali are melted in a kettle, which is a steel tank that can stand three stories high and hold several thousand pounds of material. Steam coils within the kettle heat the batch and bring it to a boil. After boiling, the mass thickens as the fat reacts with the alkali, producing soap and glycerin.
Salting
2 The soap and glycerin must now be separated. The mixture is treated with salt, causing the soap to rise to the top and the glycerin to settle to the bottom. The glycerin is extracted from the bottom of the kettle.
Strong change
3 To remove the small amounts of fat that have not saponified, a strong caustic solution is added to the kettle. This step in the process is called “strong change.” The mass is brought to a boil again, and the last of the fat turns to soap. The batch may be given another salt treatment at this time, or the manufacturer may proceed to the next step.
Pitching
4 The next step is called “pitching.” The soap in the kettle is boiled again with added water. The mass eventually separates into two layers. The top layer is called “neat soap,” which is about 70% soap and 30% water. The lower layer, called “nigre,” contains most of the impurities in the soap such as dirt and salt, as well as most of the water. The neat soap is taken off the top. The soap is then cooled. The finishing process is the same as for soap made by the continuous process.
Developed around 1940 and used by today’s major soap-making companies, the above illustrations show the continuous process of making soap.
The Continuous Process
Splitting
1 The first step of the continuous process splits natural fat into fatty acids and glycerin. The equipment used is a vertical stainless steel column with the diameter of a barrel called a hydrolizer. It may be as tall as 80 feet (24 m). Pumps and meters attached to the column allow precise measurements and control of the process. Molten fat is pumped into one end of the column, while at the other end water at high temperature (266°F [130°C]) and pressure is introduced. This splits the fat into its two components. The fatty acid and glycerin are pumped out continuously as more fat and water enter. The fatty acids are then distilled for purification.
Mixing
2 The purified fatty acids are next mixed with a precise amount of alkali to form soap. Other ingredients such as abrasives and fragrance are also mixed in. The hot liquid soap may be then whipped to incorporate air.
Cooling and finishing
3 The soap may be poured into molds and allowed to harden into a large slab. It may also be cooled in a special freezer. The slab is cut into smaller pieces of bar size, which are then stamped and wrapped. The entire continuous process, from splitting to finishing, can be accomplished in several hours.
Milling
4 Most toiletry soap undergoes additional processing called milling. The milled bar lathers up better and has a finer consistency thaon-milled soap. The cooled soap is fed through several sets of heavy rollers (mills), which crush and knead it. Perfumes can best be incorporated at this time because their volatile oils do not evaporate in the cold mixture. After the soap emerges from the mills, it is pressed into a smooth cylinder and extruded. The extruded soap is cut into bar size, stamped and wrapped.
Toilet soap making plant (Complete from oil/fat) :
Toilet soap is an oil based soap and used for bathing in whole over the world. The demand of this soap is very high at everywhere due to consumer item. Generally main raw material used for making toilet soap are palm oil or fatty acid, palm kernel or coconut oil or fatty acid, caustic soda, water, color, perfume, preservatives, additives etc. The process is started from soap saponification vessel. Oils/fats are fed by pump from storage tanks and the process is started. Required quantity of caustic lye (water) of required concentrated is added during the process. At the same time solution is heated (boiled) by using steam of steam boiler. After process of few hours, neat soap will be ready in saponification vessel which is transferred in to cooling moulds. After cooling and drying of the same soap for few hours, the same soap is converted in soap chips by using soap chips making machine that is for fast and better drying. The dried chips are used for finishing of soap and that process is started from soap mixer machine where desired color, perfume preservatives, additives etc. are added. The mixed soap is then fed to the soap roller machine where it gets homogenized, finishing and final output soap in form of thin ribbon. The same thin ribbon is fed in to the duplex plodder machine which used for highest compression, finishing of soap and which produced final output of soap in bar form. Automatic soap bar cutting machine is kept next to duplex plodder outlet and which cut soap in bar form. The next process is cutting of soap bar in to cake (tablet) which will be with suitable size of soap stamping process. Then the soap stamping machine (automatic soap stamping machine in big capacity) is used to stamp final soap in tablet (cake) form. The stamping dies of stamping machine are made specially according to buyer’s selected logo, design, brand name so buyer will get final soap with desired logo, design and brand name. A process flow chart is given here for more information.
As mentioned before, main raw-materials for toilet soap is oils/fats. But at some place this is not available easily. So at that place it is easy and convenient to make toilet soap directly from soap noodles (or soap chips) (raw soap). In that case main raw materials used for making toilet soap from is soap noodles (ready-made raw soap), water, color, perfume, preservatives, additives etc. This process is started from soap mixer machine where desired color, perfume preservatives, additives etc. are added. The mixed soap is then fed in to the soap roller machine where it get homogenized, finishing and final output soap in form of thin ribbon. The same thin ribbon is fed in to the duplex plodder machine which used for highest compression, finishing of soap and which produced final output of soap in bar form. Automatic soap bar cutting machine is kept next to duplex plodder outlet and which cut soap in bar form. The next process is cutting of soap bar in to cake (table) which will be with suitable size of soap stamping process. Then the soap stamping machine (automatic soap stamping machine in big capacity) is used to stamp final soap in tablet (cake) form. The stamping dies of stamping machine are made specially according to buyer’s selected logo, design, brand name so buyer will get final soap with desired logo, design and brand name. A process flow chart is given here for more understanding :
Soap Mixer Machine :
This is a latest and specially designed soap mixer to mix soap noodle or soap chips with other ingredients like color, perfume, preservatives, additives etc. Mixing is done by the specially shaped “Z” blades set on parallel shafts mounted with close clearance in a double ‘U’ shaped trough. With the help of blades the mass is rolled and folded back and pushed down to join the separate layers. This action is repeated until desired uniformity is obtained. The rotational speed of each blades are different and adjusted according to requirement for better result through heavy-duty reduction gear box system and electric motor. The electric motor can be switched on-off by automatic heavy-duty electric panel board when required. Design of `mixer bucket, design of blades and suitable rotational speed of blades gives extremely well result of mixing. The process of a batch takes normally about few minutes.
Soap Roller Machine
Soap Roller Machine
For the manufacture of high-quality toilet soap a homogeneous soap structure is needed. For homogenization of the soap mixture, roller mills are especially well suited. This is a heavy-duty machine is mainly used for mixing and grinding soap granule with normal temperature and moisture by running special very harden material of three rollers on horizontal to squeeze and grind soap particles. Each soap paste duly mixed with color and perfume requires a close grinding of mixed mass to bring fineness and homogeneity. The action of grinding or calendaring of the mass is done by means of passing through the close gap of rolls to form ribbon (thin layer thickness) like shape. It is done for good texture and odor of toilet soaps. Rolls are kept cool during operation as per cooling arrangement already provided in the machine and water circulates in the rolls accordingly to avoid stickiness of mass with the rolls and to bring a uniformity with a sophisticated fineness in the mass. The rotational speed of each rolls are different and adjusted according to requirement for better result through heavy-duty reduction gear box and electric motor. The electric motor can be switched on-off by automatic heavy-duty electric panel board when required. Design of overall machine with super finely grinded rolls and scraping device gives so extremely well result of rolling (homogenizing) of soap.
Soap Duplex Vacuum Plodder Machine
Soap Duplex Plodder Machine :
The modern soap making uses a duplex vacuum plodder for the final refining, compacting & air free extrusion of a continuous bar especially in toilet soap. The plodder (extrusion machine) is a crucial piece of equipment in the entire soap plant. It plays a major role and gives a final shape in bar form to soap mass. In the first stage soap is compressed, refined and supplied to the vacuum chamber in shape of noodles. The soap is refined by means of a refiner worm press. In order to reach the refining effect, a refining sieve (screen) (perforated disc) is fitted at the outlet of machine. A noodle cutter is fitted very near to same disc which is used for cutting of soap noodles. When the soap mass passed through the same perforated disc it is transferred into noodles form. The noodles fall into the vacuum chamber, where they are taken up by the main extrusion worm press, again compressed continuously and then extruded in the form of bar. Distinctive design of die is provided with the mouth piece of extrusion barrel to achieve a particular size of bar and then bar cut into a fixed size of length. The plodder machine is equipped with suitable cooling jackets system. End of the conical compression head is heated by electrically heated oil bath chamber under the control of a temperature controller to get glossy surface on the soap bar. Design of overall machine with super finely grinded barrels and extrusion cone as well as very special design of machine’s extrusion screws and cone give so extremely well result of refining, compacting of soap.
Soap Bar Cutting Machine
Soap Circular Bar Cutting Machine :
This Machine is kept immediately after plodder machine and which is used to cut soap in to bar form. The bar coming continuously from the end mouth (mouth die), enter in to this machine and which cut the same bar in to fixed length. The next process of this bar is to cut in to tablet (cake) form.
Soap Cutting Machine
Soap Cutting Machine for Soap Cakes :
The bars cut in to small soap cakes (tables) by using this soap cutting machine. The final size of cake is adjusted here according to the weight of final soap. Distance between thin wires can be set according to final weight need of soap. This is a reciprocating type wire cutting machine which is hand operated as well as motorized. That is as per buyer’s choice.
Soap Stamping Machine
Soap Stamping Machine :
This is a ideal foot operated soap stamping machine where soap cakes are stamped. Soap stamping die (mould) (upper part and lower part) is fitted in the soap-stamping machine and both the parts (dies) movement up and down by rams. The cake comes from soap cutting machine is put between two dies and press a stroke of peddle and finally cake will be stamped and make your branded final soap which is now ready for packing. Generally all type of soap shapes are possible to stamp in this machine. We will supply a set of final soap moulds with this machine and that mould will be prepared according to your logo, brand name etc. So that final soap will be as desired by you. This machine is also suitable to stamp hotel soap. Generally this machine is used for smaller capacity of soap plant. Buyer can also increase the number of machines for getting more capacity or in bigger capacity plant.
Automatic Soap Stamping Machine
Automatic Soap Stamping Machine :
Automatic soap stamping machine is required in bigger capacity of soap plant. Generally 500 kg./hour and above capacity of toilet soap plant is advisable with automatic soap stamping machine. Approximate speed of automatic soap stamping machine is 100-350 soap per minute. The same machine also required chilled water circulation inside dies, air with pressure, vacuum etc. Chilled water is received from water super chilling plant. Air is received from air compressor and vacuum is done by vacuum pump.
How to make soap at home
You will need
Main ingredients
900ml water
295g caustic soda (make sure you buy pure sodium hydroxide and not something caustic soda based, that might include other ingredients)
615g coconut oil (or vegetable fat)
800ml sunflower oil
800ml olive oil
For the fragrance
Essential oils
Other additives (dried herbs, petals and fruit depending on what soaps you want to make)
For decoration
Pastry cutters
Ribbons
Bows
Protective clothing
An apron
Rubber gloves
Goggles
A large plastic bucket or stainless steel pot (don’t use cast iron or aluminium)
Plastic containers or moulds (again, don’t use metal containers)
When using caustic soda, make sure you follow the manufacturers instructions. Always wear protective clothing and work in a well ventilated room. When mixing, always add caustic soda to cold water, not water to caustic soda.
Step One: Mix The Caustic Soda In The Water
Pour 900ml of water into the bucket. Making sure to wear your apron, rubber gloves and goggles, carefully whisk the 295g of caustic soda into the water and watch as the chemical reactions cause it to heat up. (Make sure you add the soda to the water, NOT the other way round.) Once this reaction is happening, it’s time to add the oils.
Step Two: Prepare The Oils
You can buy it in specialist shops and online. An easy alternative is vegetable fat that you can get in the supermarket.
Put the 615g of coconut oil into a large pan on a low heat and it will melt very quickly. To this, add 800mls of sunflower oil and the same again of a good quality olive oil. (I’d normally have olive oil on a salad, but it’s been used as a moisturiser on skin for thousands of years. And if it’s good enough for the ancients, then it’s good enough for me.)
Step Three: Mix Everything Together
When all the oil has melted together, pour it into the bucket with the caustic soda and water.
You’ll need to stir it now, for around 40 minutes. You’re looking for a change of colour and texture in your mixture.
40 minutes? That’ll give you a bit of time to make the big decision on what flavour of soaps you want to make!
Step Four: Choose Your Flavours
Once the mixture has started to change colour and texture, it’s time to add the lovely bits.
The delicious scents come from the essential oils – and there are so many flavours to choose from. From fresh fruity scents such orange or grapefruit to the more Christmassy scents of frankincense or myrrh. I made three flavours: a zingy lime and parsley, a fresh lemongrass, oats, and honey, and a festive cinnamon and orange. So first, I divided my base soap mixture into three mixing bowls.
To the first bowl, I added a handful of parsley, then measured 20g of lime essence into the mix.
To the second, a handful of porridge oats, a glug of honey and some lemongrass essence.
To the third, I added cinnamon and orange essence, as well as some fresh orange zest.
Step Five: Transfer To The Moulds
Now you just need to transfer your mixtures to the moulds to set. I’m using simple plastic tubs that you’ll probably have in your kitchen cupboard – but you can essentially use any manner of plastic containers you like.
Once mine were in the moulds, I added some thin slices of (real) orange to my cinnamon and orange soap, which will look lovely and decorative when it sets.
Then my tubs of loveliness were wrapped in a blanket for 24 hours to slowly cool down and set.
Step Six: Dry Out The Soaps
Once the soaps have cooled down and set, take them out the moulds and leave them to dry in a cupboard for six weeks so the caustic soda dissolves and the soap won’t have any harmful effects on your skin.
Step Seven: Add The Final Decorations
Finally, when the six weeks are up, you can divide the soaps up and decorate them. The blocks can be cut into smaller slices and wrapped with ribbons and bows. I also used a couple of different shaped pastry cutters, which you can buy in any cook shop, to make pretty, shaped soaps which I finished off with dried rosebuds.
Step Eight: Give Your Soaps As Presents
Everyone loves to get smellies, so if you’re looking to steer clear of big brands in favour of homespun gifts worth giving, these soaps are perfect.
SINGLE OIL SWAP
Swap was conducted at Crafttalk forums. Hosted by Xavalyss, suggested by Emiflo. Thanks to both, without whom this swap would never have occurred.
Full swap group
Rating Scale- 1 to 5 with 1 being worst and 5 being best
All photos taken when soap was wet. In many cases, wetting made the soap look better than when dry because it evened out color to a degree.
1. Palm Kernel Oil
color 5 translucent white
hard 5 very hard
texture 5 smooth shiny, like white marble
odor 5 none
lather 5 strong med bubbles
conditioning 4 nice. Soft. Squeaky clean
Impression 5 best bar of all
2. Palm Oil- Excellent bar, somewhat waxy texture. Very fast drying soap
color 5 light cream
hard 5 no shrinkage
texture 5 nice, waxy shiny texture
odor 5 none
lather 5 big bubbles fading quickly into cream. Feels like lotion
conditioning 4 very nice. Squeaky clean
Impression 5 – Fantastic soap, Perfect.
3. Rice Bran Oil – Excellent bar
color 5 cream
hard- 5 no shrinkage
texture 5 very nice, smooth
odor 5 – no smell
lather 4 – creamy, no huge lather but no slime.
conditioning 4 not drying, but not moisturizing. Squeaky clean
Impression 5- Great soap. Nearly perfect.
4. Crisco – amazing. I’m stunned at how nice this is right now. Must test over time
color 5 pinkish light tan
hard 5 very hard
texture 5 smooth, shiny
odor 5 none
lather 4 good creamy
conditioning 3 bit hard to rinse off, left skin bit dry
Impression 5 shockingly good. Must see over time. Near perfect now. Rotted in shower in blended soap.
5. Soy Wax – Excellent bar
color 4 light tan, smooth and beautiful
hard 5 – so hard, the edges are SHARP
texture 5 smooth, shiny – like polished stone
odor 4 faint
lather 2 very faint, clear gel like lather
conditioning 4 not drying, squeaky clean.
Impression 5 near perfect bar
6. Peanut – Beautiful near perfect bar
color 5 white translucent
hard 5
texture 5 flawless
odor 4 faintly earthy
lather 3 creamy but not bubbles
conditioning 5 left skin feeling very nice
Impression 5 near perfect bar, but the allergies…
7. Sesame Near Perfect bar
color 5 evenly tan
hard 5
texture 5
odor 3 earthy
lather 5 strong lather
conditioning 5 feels just fantastic
Impression 5 smell and problem with allergies maybe.
8. Sweet Almond – Excellent bar, fast drying
color 4 cream
hard 5
texture 5 shiny
odor 5
lather 5 strong lather, clear bubbles
conditioning 4 nice, not drying
Impression 5 excellent soap problem with allergies maybe
9. Lard – fast drying – excellent bar
color 4 – medium cream – bit of yelllow discoloration in 1 corner
hard 5 – no shrinkage
texture 5 smooth/slick surface
odor 4 faint odor from cocoa butter? (odor absorber)
lather 3 medium bubbles, vanishing to cream
conditioning 4 nice soft not drying
Impression 4.5 near perfect bar
10. Tallow – like lard but whiter – fast drying
color 4 grey white, bit translucent. Not 5 because the center was not translucent.
hard 5 no shrinkage
texture 5 very nice smooth
odor 4 faint odor
lather 3 medium bubbles, creamy
conditioning 4 – much like lard feel
Impression 4.5
11. Olive Oil – Very nice bar Near perfect (of course, this is Castille)
color 4 white, with some yellow discoloration on edges
hard 5
texture 5 smooth, shiny
odor 5
lather 3 kind of thin, small bubbles, slimy and sticky
conditioning 3 squeaky, not drying but not real nice either
Impression 4.5 of course, this is Castille
12. Coconut Oil – not very surprising, excellent bar
color 5 cream
hard 4 bit shrinkage
texture 4 nice, waxy, shiny
odor 5 none
lather 5 fast medium lather, foaming into thick creamy
conditioning 2 drying afterwards
Impression 4.5
13. Castor Near perfect bar bar
color 5 translucent cream, not totally even tho
hard 5 very
texture 5 smooth, shiny
odor 5
lather 2 small bubbles at first, vanishing into a ‘gel’… almost oily. slippery.
conditioning 2 bit tight. squeaky clean drying
Impression 4.5 excellent bar, too little lather
14. Avacado Unrefined – Near Perfect bar, but slow drying
color 5 medium green… looks like jade
hard 5 perfect
texture 5 perfect
odor 3 earthy pleasant, like cocoa butter
lather 4 creamy, sticky, bit slimy, small bubbles
conditioning 4 nice feel, not dry
Impression 4.5 Excellent bar
15. Shea Butter – much ash, dries very fast
color 5 snow white but very ashy
hard 5 very hard
texture 4 bit warped from shrinkage
odor 4 earthy like cocoa (or am I smelling a carry over?)
lather 2 like lotion, VERY creamy, almost no bubbles tho
conditioning 5 nice, hard to rinse, but of course feels great
Impression 4.5 would be perfect if not for the ash and no lather
16. Cocoa Butter – Excellent soap – dries FAST
color 4 light tan
texture 5 smooth slick
hard 4 rock hard but brittle, piece snapped off like chocolate
odor 3 earthy odor, but not chocolate
lather 4 creamy bubbles medium. nice lather
conditioning 5 felt soft, great.
Impression 4.5 Excellent soap. Brittle and so expensive tho.
17. Corn -Good bar
color 4 cream, off white
hard 4 not rock hard
texture 5 ok
odor 4 faint rancid
lather 4 surprisingly robust, creamy
conditioning 4 hard to rinse off, left hands feeling pretty good.
Impression 4 Great bar. Need to see rancidity.
**photo a bit over exposed
18. Apricot Kernel Good bar
color 4 white, bad ash
hard 4 dentable
texture 4 not very smooth due to softness
odor 4 faint pleasant
lather 2 bubbled then got creamy like lotion. Lotion feel
conditioning 5 hard to rinse clean. But very very soft
Impression 4 Excellent soap, but the ash and dents don’t look good. Reminds me of CPHP
19. Fractionated Coconut – lotionlike
color 5 snow white – looks like refined shea, no ash tho
hard 5 no shrinkage
texture 5 nice, not waxy, matt finish
odor 5 none
lather 3 little bubbly creamy lather
conditioning 4 the soap feels like lotion- squeaky clean
Impression 4 excellent bar
20. Hemp – very slow drying
color 4 yellow green translucent. Pretty
hard 2 squishable
texture 3 sticky when wet, too soft to get smooth looking
odor 3 hemp. When wet, smells like hay
lather 4 BIG bubbles
conditioning 5 very nice feel.
Impression 4 good soap.
21. Canola Not good
color 4 medium yellowish white, with ash.
hard 5 very hard
texture 4 ashy, brittle, bit sticky when wet
odor 4 faint stink
lather 3 decent lather, but sticky and slimy. Cream lather.
conditioning 3 hard to rinse clean, not dry but yucky and slippery
Impression 3 Good bar except for bad appearance.
22. Sunflower – not good
color 3 white, with yellow edges
hard 2 soft, moldable
texture 3 ok, but shrunk
odor 4 faint yuck
lather 5 great lather, clear bubbles, not creamy
conditioning 4 not drying, squeaky clean
Impression 3 not impressed. Add to short shelf life, no good
**photo over-exposed, color not true (it did whiten more when wet, but color not as good as shown)
23. Safflower – VERY slow drying
color 2 mottled yellow, unattractive
texture 2 severe shrinkage
hard 2 not runny but very soft
odor 2 rancid
lather 4 big bubbles, fast lathering
conditioning 3 smooth, hard to rinse clean, left skin bit dry
Impression 2 wouldn’t be so horrible cept for smell and color
24. Soybean – Gross. I made this. Phew. Yucky. Never dries
color 1 nasty. Was cream, turned yellowish mottled nasty
texture 1 sticky. gross.
hard 1 not hard. so soft had to be scooped out with spoon
odor 1 stink rancid puke
lather 4 lather out the wazoo, but ‘hairy’ lather.
conditioning 3 not bad, but makes soap ‘hairs’
Impression 2 forget this. Lather is not bad tho. 2 words, sticky, slimy
25. Grapeseed – No good
color 2 green – lime/white uneven with spots of rancid yellow
hard 2 soft
texture 2 blotchy rancid spots
odor 1 strongly stinky
lather 3 large bubbles becoming clear gel like
conditioning 3 kind of ‘oily’ feeling, but still not nice. long rinse
Impression 2 ick. forget this.
**much prettier when wet
It’s been roughly 6 months since the swap – 9-28-03
I stored all my single soaps in individual ziplock baggies, and all the baggies in a plastic storage box. Here’s the results (arranged in order of rancidity):
No detectable change:
Palm – perfect. No evidence of any change at all since I got it.
Fractionated coconut – no change
Castor – flawless. No change. Hard as rock.
Soy Wax – no change
PKO – no change. Still same color, texture, look
Sesame Oil – was tan to begin with, so not sure how you can tell it’s ok, no change noticeable
Sweet Almond – 2 small DOS spots. Otherwise no change.
No rancidity, color change (useable):
Avacado (unrefined) – paler green, otherwise no change. Beautiful bar
Shea Butter -hard as a brick… discolored to a light yellow… you could pound nails with this soap. No evidence of any rancidity.
Tallow– turned pinkish… (was always a bit pink, now pinker). No other change.
Lard – orange but not rancid – hard as a rock
Olive Oil – discolored to a yellow orange… not rancid. Hard as a rock.
Coconut – darkened a bit to off white, otherwise no other change
Some rancidity/DOS (unusable as soap):
RBO– off white now (vs white) hard as a rock, 1 rancid spot in corner
Cocoa Butter – one orange dos spot on the top, otherwise perfect
Apricot Kernal – bit of yellowing rancidity but intact
Crisco – no longer pinkish white, it’s now orange all over – looks like DOS evenly over the entire bar, but still hard and firm.
Canola – I got 2 pieces of this- 1 is same as it was when I got it, that is, ugly white. Other is orangy rancid. Neither smells bad, hard as rocks.
Peanut oil– random discoloration from rancidity, still hard as a rock tho, but this one’s going
Noticably rancid and disgusting:
Sunflower – orange rancid, soft, not real greasy
Corn oil – orangier and rancid.
Safflower – SOFT orange rancid
Grapeseed – orange rancid, soft, greasy.
H emp – oily, greasy, rancid (we knew this, it started going when we got it). No trace of greeow, it’s orange.
Soybean – putrid orange wet greasy smelly mess (this hasn’t changed much)
Soaps Ingredients
We use no additives or preservatives. The ingredients we begin with are all edible. We don’t recommend that you eat our soap, since after the soap making process, the ingredients have become… soap. But this fact ensures that what you are putting on the outside of your skin has no ingredients that you would worry about putting inside your skin. Please see the ‘ingredients’ section on our individual soap description page (in our shop) for details.
Below are the main oils and components used in our soaps. The specific oils for a given soap will be given in it’s individual description. Not every soap will contain every oil listed. This is an overview of the goodies we use to make our soap, what they are and what they do.
Basic Oils and Components of our Hand Made Soaps
Glycerin
Up to 25% of this expensive lotion component in each bar of our soap. Glycerin is a natural byproduct of the saponification soap-making process. Contains humectant properties — it attracts moisture to the skin and then holds it down. Most commercial soap companies skim off the natural glycerin formed as a byproduct of soapmaking, and sell it separately for cosmetic use. We don’t do that. Every bit of the natural oils and glycerin produced during the process stays with the soap you bought. Our soap is extremely mild. Try just one bar, you’ll have a very hard time using regular commercial soap again. The difference is very very noticeable.
Aloe Vera Juice
The product is thick when the Aloe leaf is first cut, but after a few minutes, an enzymatic reaction causes it to become liquid. It is the consistency of water and is often used to replace water in lotion and soap recipes. Aloe Vera is reputed to be an excellent moisturizer. We use Aloe Vera juice in every single bar of soap we make.
Coconut Oil
Coconut oil makes soaps lather beautifully. It helps make soap hard and white with abundant, fluffy lather (even in very hard or even sea water). Coconut oil is a saturated fat. Coconut Oil is one of the most common raw material used in the soap and toiletry industry. It comes from the seeds of Cocos Nucifera and is primarily cultivated from Southeast Asia and the Philippines.
Castor Oil
Castor oil is extracted from the Castor Bean Plant. It is a thick, viscous liquid with a slight distinctive smell. It acts similar to glycerin, as a humectant, drawing moisture to the skin. Castor oil contributes to thick, large bubbles in soap and is used in most shampoo bar recipes.
Cocoa Butter
It acts to lay down a protective layer which holds the moisture to the skin, so it is an excellent skin softener. It has a natural chocolate scent which works well in many concoctions.This oil is a hard solid at room temperature, making the term “butter” a bit misleading. It is an edible vegetable fat that is obtained from cocoa beans. It has a mild chocolate flavor with a very chocolate-y aroma. Cocoa butter is one of the most stable fats (having a shelf life up to five years) and also contains natural antioxidants.
Lard
A nice lathery, white bar of soap, soaps that contain it tend to feel more slippery to the touch. Not included in all our soaps, but when it is, the soap is smoother and richer. Lard is the primary component of ‘traditional’ handmade soaps, and it is still the best ‘main’ ingredient today.
Olive Oil
Olive oil is frequently used as a base because it is extremely gentle. Castile soap is primarily or entirely composed of Olive Oil. It is usually used for an especially mild soap, good for babies (unscented of course). This soap is very soft, but has very little lather.
Palm Oil
Palm oil is a nice conditioning oil which also produces good lather as well as contributes to the hardness of the soap. It is used to replace lard or tallow in our all vegetable soap recipes because it provides similar benefits.
Rice Bran Oil
A nice conditioning oil which provides more lather than many other oils. Its most notable feature is its high level of components with nutraceutical value such as gamma-oryzanol and tocotrienols, which means it’s similar to peanut oil in its conditioning properties, without the risks of peanut oil for those who are sensitive.
Safflower Oil
Safflower oil is another unsaturated oil, usually used in combination with coconut to harden it up more. It is valuable for its moisturizing properties.
Soybean Oil
Mild, and has a stable lather. It also contributes conditioning properties and contains higher amounts of EFA’s, which are proven to repair dry skin conditions.
Sunflower Oil
It contains Vitamin E and is very gentle and mild in soaps. It is considered one of the more conditioning base oils in soapmaking.
Beeswax
The most commonly used wax in the toiletry industry. Beeswax is a substance secreted by the worker honey bees used for the construction of their honeycomb. In addition to making an excellent hardening agent in lip balm and lotion bars, Beeswax is a wonderful fuel for candles. We use it in our soaps that contain honey as a hardener and also because the wax helps protect the skin from elements.
Very Special Additive Oils
These oils are typically used alone or in creams, lotions or massage oils due to expense. The quantity of these additive oils is what determines the pricing of our soap. Commercial soaps contaione of them, and we use far more of each than other handmade soap makers. They add tremendously to the silkiness of each soap, alone or in combination, although not frequently used, again, due to expense. Please check the individual soap descriptions for which additional oils are included. The feel is worth the price.
Sweet Almond Oil
Excellent as a massage oil, this luxurious oil is also wonderful in soap. Sweet Almond Oil is renowned for its rich concentration of oleic and linoleic essential fatty acids which help to give it unequalled penetrating and restructuring properties.
Avocado Oil
Avocado oil contains vitamins A, D, and E, which makes it healing as well as moisturizing. This oil is a wonderful additive for all kinds of personal care products and seems to soak into the skin fairly quickly. Excellent for soothing dry or damaged skin and for wrinkle prevention. It has also been shown to be a most effective sun screen oil.
Emu Oil
Helps heal damaged skin tissues, and helps draw other ingredients (like Wintergreen) down into your skin so they are more effective.
Evening Primrose Oil
Evening primrose oil provides essential fatty acids that the skin absorbs quickly. These acids help inhibit bacterial growth and encourage antibodies so the skin is better able to defend against infection or inflammation. It can help retain water in the skin to fight against dry skin, eczema, scaly skin, and dandruff. It is not suited for oily complexions.
Jojoba
Jojoba helps to promote a stable lather and is good at conditioning skin. Because of its expense, it’s usually used to superfat, or in shampoo bars. Used in other toiletries, it is an excellent emollient for skin conditions like psoriasis, because it has a chemical composition very close to the skin’s own sebum. It is suitable for all skin types, beneficial for spotty and acne conditions, and good for sensitive and oily skin. Jojoba has been used for centuries by the native Americans for skin care moisturization and hair conditioning. It also helps to unclog the pores and remove any embedded grime. Jojoba is actually a liquid ester wax rather than a true oil. Renowned for its absorption and moisturizing abilities, jojoba oil is expeller pressed from the Jojoba Seed. Because of its fatty acid make up, jojoba oil is very resistant to oxidation (and rancidity).
Macadamia Oil
Macadamia is a luxury oil that is a little more expensive than some others, it is easily absorbed into the skin and acts as an emollient, and contains ingredients which some studies suggest may protect skin cells from deterioration, leading to better condition for your skin. Tones aged or dry skin, and is skin-softening and wound healing. In France is used as an aid against sunburn. Macadamia’s fatty acids are helpful in maintaining the skins water barrier functions. It is self-stabilizing and requires no antioxidants. Macadamia Nut Oil is obtained by cold pressing of the nuts (seeds) followed by a full refining process to render an oil which is light in color and mild in odor. Offers an exceptionally good emolliency and good dermal penetration.
Mango Butter
With basically no scent, it is a great moisturizer. Mango Butter is extracted from the fruit kernels of the Mango tree. The butter is solid at room temperatures but melt upon contact with skin (approximately 87 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit). The butter is carefully refined and deodorized and is usually used straight as a balm, creams and lotions.
Sesame Seed Oil
Sesame oil is good as a superfatting agent because it is very good at moisturizing, but has a strong odor, so is used sparringly.
Shea Butter
Shea butter is a truly superior superfatting agent because it contains a large percentage of elements which do not saponify, but instead remain in the soap to nourish your skin. We use raw shea butter that is hand pressed in Africa by native tribeswomen. It is a natural fat obtained from the fruit of the karite tree. We believe this is the absolute best possible oil for your skin that there is, and its use in the most expensive cosmetics in the world bears us out. Shea butter will start to melt on contact with the skin, and absorbs quickly. This butter has a high allantoic content which makes it great for creams, lotions and salves.
*Warning- if you are allergic to peanuts, you may also be allergic to Shea Butter!*
Tamanu Oil
Thousands of years ago, the natives of Tahiti found a large, strange tree growing near the ocean. They soon found that the dried nuts from this tree, which they name the “ati” tree, contained a special oil that they used to help protect their skin from the hot sun, humidity and sea winds. There is a very small supply of Tamanu oil in the world because of the small growing area. It takes a full 100 kilograms of Tamanu fruit (which is the annual production of one adult tree) to make just 5 kilograms of cold pressed Tamanu oil. Reputed uses by the people of Tahiti are wide and varied – from burns, to insect bites, to stretch marks this oil is truly multi faceted. Due to scarcity, we only offer soaps made with this as ‘specials’ from time to time.
Tea Tree Essential Oil
Tea Tree Oil is made from the Melaleuca Tree, common to Australia and other sub-tropical regions of the world. Tea Tree Oil has excellent antiseptic qualities and may be used in a wide array of product applications where natural anti-bacterial properties are desired. Exhibits a pleasant, menthol-like odor which is clean and refreshing. An excellent choice for use in toners and cleansers.
Wheat Germ Oil
This oil is one of the richest natural sources of Vitamin E, containing up to 10 times more of the vitamin than other oils, the largest percentage of natural vitamin E we know of. It also contains vitamin A and K and has high antioxidant power. It is said that when applied to the skin, it helps reduce acne problems, smooth skin and increase resistance to the sun. It also adds to lather stability and is very conditioning. We love wheatgerm oil in our soaps, and use it generously in our soaps which contain it.
FATTY ACID AND GLYCERINE PLANTS BY MECTECH
Fatty Acid industry is associated with production of fatty acids and glycerine. Both vegetable oils & animal fats are being used as feedstock for fatty acids / glycerine manufacturing. The fatty acids are manufactured as a distillate mixture or a pure fraction. Pure fractions can be obtained either from fractionation plant or by selectively choosing the feed-stock & carrying out straight distillation.
The Advantage
Each plant component is designed to MICRO level; hence performance of each component is controlled to the required level.
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Our plants are 100% custom-built and we do not sell the “standard plants”.
It results in good “Turndown” Ratio for plant operation..
Customer need not compromise on his requirements. We can supply the plants of required capacities at desired parameters such as utility consumptions, operability, plant life as per customer’s request.
The bio-diesel system is able to use different cold- and hot pressed fresh vegetable oils as well as pre-treated used vegetable oils.
In all cases, if the operator of the plant follows the required qualities of the input materials and ensures a constant process operation, the product quality will be in correspondence with the requirements of the European bio-diesel standard DIN EN 14214 as well as with all other conventional international norms.
It has to be pointed out, that used vegetable oils and certain fresh oils like palm oil only can be used for the production of so-called “summerbiodiesel” because the winter stability caot be ensured yet. For all different raw materials a transesterification grade of > 98 % and constant product quality will be reached.
The current offered plants are a BASE-LINE offer and further customization / improvement will be done against customer’s specific request.
Mectech’s Revolutionary on-line seperation system for fatty acid and glycerine phase
Working principal
Driving force for Static Separator is gravity flow. The Separator is a static device having highly specialized internals and level controller. The internals are so specially designed that, the disperse phase smaller droplets gets agglomerate on the surface to form bigger globules. This enhances process of separation of the two phases.
The agglomerated bigger globules represents Free Disperse Phase and is padded through an environment where sufficiently quiescent conditions are maintained, so that disperse phase globule rises to the continuous phase surface; forming a layer of disperse phase liquid. The removal of both phases from the separator is through level controller. Both phases are freely discharged under gravity.
Soap noodles
Fatty acids sourced from Palm stearin, Rice-Bran Oil, Coconut Oil, Tallow…etc. are typically blended together to form fatty acids blend for soap manufacturing.
Today all premium grade soaps are being manufactured from blend of the distilled fatty acid.
Fat splitting plant
In Fat Splitting Plant, hydrolysis reaction of oil / fat is carried out. The reaction takes place at high pressure and high temperature. Triglycerides (fat/oil) react with water to convert into fatty acids and glycerol. The Fat Splitting Plant is a high-pressure single tower system.
The fatty matter proceeding from battery limits is pre-heated and fed to the de-aerator operating under vacuum.
The de-aerated fat is fed via a high-pressure pump to the bottom of the tower. In bottom of the tower, there is a heat recovery section where de-aerated fat isheated by the exiting sweet water. The process water is fed via a high-pressure pump to the top of the splitting tower.
In top of the tower, there is a heat recovery section where process water is heated by the discharging crude fatty acids. The high pressure splitting tower is provided with temperature controllers.
Fatty acids distillation plant
Fatty Acids Distillation plant is broadly divided into three main section. vis. de-gasification, pre-cut system and main distillation system. These main process section are supported for optimum cooling based on thermostatised water system.
Crude fatty acids from battery limit is filtered, pre-heated and admitted to the de-gasifying unit operating under vacuum, where it is dried and de-gasified. Crude fatty acids, from de-gasifier is heated in thermic fluid exchanger and fed to the pre-cut column.
The pre-cut column operates under vacuum and is composed of various section; starting from bottom, the main sections are vaporization section, Two sections of distillation packing bed, pump-around section and scrubbing section. From bottom of the column, the product is sent to Fatty Acid Distillation column.
The main distillation column operates under vacuum and is composed of various section; starting from bottom the main sections are vaporization section, stripping section, one set of washing section, one pump-around section and one scrubbing section
Glycerine Distillation Plant is broadly divided into three main sections viz.de-aeration section, distillation section and bleaching section.
The de-aeration loop consists of a re-circulation pump and heat exchanger. The pump circulates the crude glycerine to the de-aeration vessel and feeds de-aerated crude glycerine to the distillation column.
The distillation section is composed of various systems consisting off vaporization system, stripping system, rectification system, pumparound system and scrubbing system.
Bleaching section composed of two fixed beds of activated carbon. Distilled glycerine is cooled to bleaching temperature and then passed through the bleachers.
The bleached glycerine is filtered and then finally cooled down to storage temperature before discharging to the battery limits.
